Barcelona day trips using Public transport

Planning day trips from Barcelona

Staying in Barcelona and interested taking a day trip to explore what else Catalonia has to offer? There’s three ways how to take a day trip from Barcelona:

  1. Hire a car and drive wherever takes your fancy
  2. Sign up for an organised day out with a local tour operator
  3. Hop on a bus or train

In this blog post we are focusing on Barcelona day trips using public transport.

Day trips from Barcelona on public transport

There’s many blog posts out there with suggestions of day trips from Barcelona. Among the usual suspects which often crop up are Montserrat, Sitges, Girona and the Dali museum at Figueres. All these are wonderful and certainly worth a visit. However the aim of this post is to focus on a few perhaps lesser known “off the beaten track” itineraries.

Costa Brava Cami de Ronda – Colera to Llanca

The Cami de Ronda is a series of coastal paths stretching the whole length of the Costa Brava. Hiking the 150+ kilometers of the Cami de Ronda in its entirety will take around 10 days but for a day trip we suggest this one short stretch. Public transport from Barcelona to the Costa Brava is not great but for this particular trip the train works well.

Day trips from Barcelona
Port de Joan, Garbet. On the Cami de Ronda between Colera and Llanca

From Barcelona El Clot – Arago train station take the R11 train to Colera. This can take between two and three hours depending on which train you get. For example the 07.25 train takes two and a half hours and arrives in Colera at 09.55. Barcelona to Colera timetable here. An alternative option would be to take the high speed AVE train from Barcelona to Girona. The 08.15 train from Barcelona Sants station arrives in Girona at 08.53. This would give you 5 minutes to catch the R11 train which departs Girona at 08.55 and arrives in Colera at 09.55.Barcelona to Girona AVE timetable here.

This northern stretch of the Costa Brava is among the least populated and has some of the most stunning scenery.

Day trips from Barcelona using public transport
Colera to Llanca along the Cami de Ronda

The walk from Colera to Llanca takes around three hours. Perfect timing to arrive in Llanca for a nice lunch before taking the train back to Barcelona in the afternoon. A longer walk would be to stay on the train until the last stop at Portbou and walk to Llanca from there. This would increase walking time to around five or six hours. More information about the Costa Brava Cami de Ronda can be found here.

Barcelona day trip to Banyoles and Besalu

Wednesday is a good day to take this trip because it is market day in Banyoles. Even if you have no intention of buying anything it is still enjoyable to wander the streets taking in the sights and sounds of the busy market. The main draw of Banyoles is undoubtedly its lake. With a circumference of around 7 kilometres and great for a mid-morning stroll.

A view of Banyoles lake along a jetty
Banyoles lake just after sunrise

After a morning stroll around Banyoles lake and market it is time to continue the journey to the Medieval village of Besalu.

The bus company Teisa operate the route between Barcelona and Besalu and the timetable can be found here. The first bus leaves Barcelona at 09.30 arriving in Banyoles at 11.11am. Buses from Banyoles to Besalu are every hour at 45 minutes past the hour. The last bus back to Barcelona departs Besalu at 16.55 arriving in Barcelona 18.55. (Limited service at time of writing due to Covid-19).

More to follow.

Day trips from Barcelona

A selection of some of the best day trips from Barcelona

Spending some time in Barcelona but would also like to explore what Catalonia has to offer away the capitol city? Here we share a selection of our favorite places and things to do outside of the city. Please note that these suggestions are based on using a car. If you are using public transport please refer to our Barcelona day trips by public transport post.

Day trips to the Costa Brava

Located to the North of Barcelona the Costa Brava contains some wonderful beaches and fishing villages. There’s loads of different sections of the Costa Brava to choose from and all offer different facets to the traveler.

Cala Guillola
Cala Guillola, Cap de Creus, Cadaques

If i were to list all the places to visit on the Costa Brava this would turn in to a long essay so i will give just two suggestions here. Cadaques at the end of the Cap de Creus peninsula is one of our favourite places in the whole of Catalonia. Two hours by car from Barcelona the town is a wonderful place to spend a day. More details about what to do in Cadaques and surrounding area can be found here.

The second part of the Costa Brava is the area around Begur and Palafrugell, around 90 minutes from Barcelona. Here there’s a whole host of beaches to choose from many of which have restaurants where to dine on or close to the beach. More information about what to do in Begur can be found here.

Costa Brava Medieval villages

The province of Girona is not only about the beaches of the Costa Brava. There’s many interesting medieval villages in the region to explore. If history, interesting architecture and wandering around ancient cobbled streets is your thing then read more in our Costa Brava Medieval villages blog post.

Medieval bridge of Besalu
The medieval bridge of Besalu

Visit a Vineyard

Probably not the best idea of a day trip if you are driving however there’s a wide range of Barcelona based tour agencies offering wine tours close to Barcelona. Another option would be to hire a driver for the day and this is something Charming Villas can help arrange.

Catalonia contains no less than 10 distinct wine growing regions each offering its own unique growing conditions and varieties of grape. I don’t have enough space here to list each region in detail but more information on the Emporda wine growing region can be found here.

Day trip to Montserrat

A classic day trip from Barcelona and one which is advertised online by many Barcelona based tour agencies such as visitarmontserrat.com. Montserrat is a beautiful and oddly shaped mountain range which reaches a height of 1236m above sea level. Among the hills is a famous Abbey which was founded in the year 1025. If driving to Montserrat please do not leave any valuables inside the car when you park up. We once had some clients whose hire car was broken in to and valuables were stolen.

Barcelona day trip Montserrat
The Montserrat mountain range close to Barcelona (image credit www.visitarmontserrat.com )

Visit Girona and Figueres

This is a trip which can also be made by train from Barcelona. The high speed AVE train connects to Girona in 35 minutes and Figueres in just under an hour. The main draw of Figueres is without doubt the Dali museum. This world class museum could fill up a whole day just by itself. When i am helping my clients plan day trips i always stress that if the museum is on the list of things to do then this should be the main focus of the day. Unless you are planning a very early start and late finish then i do not advise multiple destinations in the same day.

Day trips from Barcelona
Dali painting the Face of War 1941 (photo credit salvador-dali.org)

Girona, bigger than Figueres, is arguably a more interesting and picturesque city to spend a day. Whereas Figueres is all about the Dali museum Girona has more variety of things to see and do. The Cathedral has been made famous since it was chosen as a filming location for the HBO series “Games of Thrones”. A number of locally based tour operators offer guided visits of the city exploring the various filming locations within the city.

Girona also has a wide range of shops and artisan markets to browse as well as its very own Las Ramblas. Not as big or famous as Barcelona’s Ramblas nonetheless it is a pleasant place to stroll or sit and watch the world pass by.

Barcelona day trip ideas
The Eiffel bridge Girona (photo credit www.holeinthedonut.com)

Vacation homes on the Costa Brava and Barcelona

Charming Villas Catalonia offer a hand-picked selection of high standard vacation rentals on the Costa Brava and Barcelona. We offer our clients a free Costa Brava concierge service and help plan activities, day trips and extra services. Let us guide you through the villa selection process helping you choose the best property for your needs.

Costa Brava filming locations

A brief history of the Costa Brava filming locations

The Costa Brava has long been a popular location for Movie and TV Shoots. The first recorded production was entitled “Amor de Pescadora” by Eduard Marquina and was shot in Tossa de Mar in 1914. It is easy to find Costa Brava filming locations all along this stretch of coastline and below i outline some of the major movies to be shot here.

Costa Brava filming locations
Elizabeth Taylor on the Costa Brava in 1958

Movies shot on the Costa Brava during the 1950’s

Perhaps the Golden age of Movies shot on the Costa Brava with some of the biggest names in Hollywood filming here.

1951 Pandora and the Flying Dutchman staring Ava Gardner and James Mason. This was the first big North American movie to be filmed on the Costa Brava. Filmed entirely on location including the coastal towns of Tossa de Mar, Palamos, S’Agaro and Platja d’Aro. 1951 was the year that Ava Gardner and Frank Sinatra married.

1952 Decameron Nights shot in Cala Francesc, Blanes starred Joan Fontaine and a young Joan Collins.

1956 The Spanish Gardener filmed in various locations along the Costa Brava including Palamos, Sant Feliu de Guxols, S’Agaro and Tossa de Mar. Dirk Bogarde was supported in the main role by Jon Whiteley and Cyril Cusack among others.

1958 Sea Fury filmed in Begur and staring Stanley Baker.

1959 Suddenly Last Summer was a blockbuster movie staring big name stars such as Elizabeth Taylor and Katharine Hepburn. Filmed in various locations including Pals, Begur and Sant Feliu de Guixols.

Costa Brava filming locations
Sinatra and Gardner on the Costa Brava in 1951

Costa Brava filming locations from the 1960’s onwards

Notable movies shot on the Costa Brava from the 1960’s onwards include:

1960 The three worlds of Gulliver Staring Kerwin Mathews.

1961 Mysterious Island staring Michael Craig and Herbert Lom

1968 Some Girls Do staring Richard Johnson

1970 The light at the edge of the World staring Yul Brynner and Kirk Douglas

1971 Nicholas and Alexandra staring a long list of stars including Tom Baker, Laurence Olivier, Fiona Fullerton and Michael Redgrave.

1977 Valentino staring Rudolf Nureyev, Felicity Kendal

1992 1492: Conquest of Paradise Directed by Ridley Scott and staring Sigourney Weaver and Gerard Depardieu

Costa Brava filming locations
Kirk Douglas on the Cap de Creus, Cadaques

Game of Thrones and Westworld filming location

More recently Girona was selected as a filming location for the celebrated series Game of Thrones. Visiting Girona to see the GoT filming locations is a popular day trip from the Costa Brava.

Part of the Westworld Series 2 was filmed in the medieval village of Besalu which was turned into a WW11 movie set for a couple of weeks.

Costa Brava filming locations
Westworld filming in Besalu

Commercial shooting locations Spain

Over the years Charming Villas Catalonia has provided locations for numerous TV commercial and product catalog shoots. We have also worked with production companies from all over the world and provided Catalonia location shooting for the following shows:

Linnan tähdet from Finland, Playing it Straight from the UK, Ocho apellidos Catalanes from Spain and Red Light from the Netherlands.

Luxury villas on the Costa Brava

At Charming Villas Catalonia we have an extensive portfolio of high standard vacation homes in and around Tamariu. Please browse our selection of luxury Costa Brava villas and farmhouses. We have visited all of the properties on our website on multiple occasions. Our aim is to offer un-biased opinions on each property and help our clients choose the best property for their needs.

Locally based we offer a free Costa Brava concierge service to all our clients and can help arrange extra services and activities. We can give suggestions of day-trips and put together bespoke days out including some of our off the beaten track favorites.

Where is Tamariu?

Tamariu Costa Brava

Tamariu is a small coastal town on the Costa Brava. One of three coastal towns within the municipality of the larger town Palafrugell which is located a few kilometres inland. The other two towns are Llafranc and Calella de Palafrugell.

Where is Tamariu?
Tamariu on the Costa Brava

Things to do in Tamariu

Tamariu is pretty small and in 20 minutes you will have walked all the streets and seen everything in the town. However this does not mean that it is boring, not by any stretch of the imagination. Of course the main feature is the beach itself. Along this stretch of the Costa Brava beaches are mainly small coves and bays. At around 200m in length it is one of the biggest sandy beaches in this region.

The promenade of Tamariu has a good selection of restaurants, great for family meals on balmy summer evenings. There’s also a small supermarket, good for picking up essentials however we recommend our clients to do their main grocery shopping in Palafrugell.

The Cami de Ronda

The Cami de Ronda is the name for the coastal path which runs the whole length of the Costa Brava. The Tamariu section of the coastal path is a little hilly so probably not ideal for little children. To the north the beach of Aiguablava is a 45 minute walk and to the south the little hidden bay of Cala Pedrosa is again around 45 minutes. The small bay of Aigua Gelida (sometimes spelt Aiga Xelida) close to Tamariu is another beautiful beach worth a visit. Read about the Costa Brava coastal path in more detail on our blog.

Aigua Gelida beach
The cove of Aigua Gelida

The area around Tamariu

With the exception of the bays and coves, the general geography of the area is rugged pine covered cliffs. The contrast between the deep blues of the ocean and the verdant greens of the pines is breathtaking. However this also means that a lot of the Tamariu holiday villas and vacation rentals in the area are built into the coastal cliffs. For families with young children some of the villas in the area may not be ideal due to the nature of the terrain.

Costa Brava holiday villas

At Charming Villas Catalonia we have an extensive portfolio of high standard vacation homes in and around Tamariu. Please browse our selection of luxury Costa Brava villas and farmhouses. We have visited all of the properties on our website on multiple occasions. Our aim is to offer un-biased opinions on each property and help our clients choose the best property for their needs.

Locally based we offer a free Costa Brava concierge service to all our clients and can help arrange extra services and activities. We can give suggestions of day-trips and put together bespoke days out including some of our off the beaten track favorites.

For more information about Tamariu and the surrounding area please visit the Visit Palafrugell website.

What to do in Begur?

Where is Begur?

Begur is a small town located on the Costa Brava coastline with Barcelona approximately 80 miles to the south and the French border approximately 50 miles to the north. Sitting in the county of the “Emporda”, more specifically the “Baix Emporda” which means the “lower Emporda”. The cosmopolitan city of Girona is just 35 miles inland.

Where is Begur
Begur is located on the Costa Brava north from Barcelona

The closest beaches

The town of Begur sits in an elevated position two miles inland from its beaches. Each beach is quite different and has it’s own characteristics. Pals has the longest sandy beach and a few chiringuitos where to buy refreshments. Illa Roja is a small sandy beach dominated by the huge red rock from where the beach gets it’s name. This is also a nudist beach. Sa Riera beach is one of the most popular beaches in the area and benefits from a number of restaurants on the beachfront. Aiguafreda is more of a cove and does not have a sandy beach but great for swimming and kayaking. Sa Tuna is a pretty picture postcard small bay with a pebble beach. Platja Fonda is untouched and free of restaurants or shops. Aiguablava beach is possibly the most beautiful beach in the area with it’s turquoise waters.

The beaches of Begur
The beaches of Begur

The history of Begur

The town is steeped in history and the area has been inhabited since Pre-Roman times. Today the oldest remaining link to it’s ancient history are the foundations of the 11th century Castle which sits in a strategic high point overlooking the town and coastline. During the 16th and 17th centuries the town was fortified to protect itself against marauding pirates. Today parts of the perimeter defensive wall and no less than five watchtowers still exist.

The 1950’s saw the dawn of mass-tourism and the Costa Brava was the first Costa in Spain to open up to tourism. The 1960’s and 70’s saw a boom in tourism and the consequent development of accommodation along the coastline in Spain. Some parts of the coast were spoiled by short-sighted over-development however this part of the coastline was largely left untouched. Today it is this factor of well preserved beaches and villages which attract both local Catalans and foreigners to spend holidays in Begur and it’s surrounding beaches.

Things to do in the area

As we have already seen this region has some of the prettiest and unspoiled beaches on the whole Costa Brava. However there’s more to Begur than just it’s beaches and the town of Begur itself has a lot to offer the traveler. The center of town is dominated by the 16th century church and it’s surrounding plaza and restaurants. There’s a good selection of boutique shops selling everything from clothing to home decor as well as bakeries, butchers and grocery stores.

Begur is also great for outdoor pursuits especially walking and cycling. The GR 92 coastal path (Cami de Ronda) stretches the whole length of the Costa Brava coastline and some of the nicest sections are in the Begur region.

The beach of AiguaBlava, Begur
AiguaBlava, Begur

Where to stay in Begur

At Charming Villas Catalonia we offer a selection of luxury villas in Begur from beachfront vacation rentals to a choice of countryside cottages and farmhouses a few miles inland from the Costa Brava coast. Let us know your most important criteria and we can give you unbiased suggestions which best fit your needs.

More information about Begur and it’s surroundings can be found at the official website Visit Begur

Dog friendly beaches on the Costa Brava

The Costa Brava is split into two zones; The Northern section (Alt Emporda) and the Southern section Baix Emporda). The Alt Emporda is considerably more dog-friendly than the Baix Emporda when it comes to dog-friendly beaches. As a result this is perhaps one consideration to take into mind when planning a family holiday on the Costa Brava with your pet dog.

Dog friendly beaches Costa Brava
Dog friendly beaches Costa Brava

Costa Brava dog friendly beaches.

Here is a list of dog friendly beaches on the Costa Brava during the summer months. Starting from the Northernmost:

Platja de les Portes, Colera. This is the main beach of the village and a section of the beach is deemed dog-friendly.

Platja de Sant Jordi, Llanca. Located to the northern section of the town this is a nice sandy beach easily accessible by foot on the Cami de Ronda.

Platja la Ribera is located in the centre of the town of Llanca.

Platja el Port de la Vall, Llanca. Located to the south of Llanca and in between Llanca and Port de la Selva.

Platja de la Rubina, Empuriabrava. Located on a long stretch of sandy beach between Empuriabrava and Roses.

Platja del Rec del Moli, L’Escala. Located between the north of the town of L’Escala and the coastal village of Sant Marti d’Empuries.

Platja Els Griells, L’Estartit. Located on a long sandy stretch of beach to the south of Estartit.

The Begur and Palafrugell Town Halls told me that officially, dogs are not allowed on any of the beaches in the Begur/Palafrugell region at any time of the year. However I have seen plenty of images on Instagram of people on these beaches with their dogs in the low season so expect it is not strictly policed.

Browse our selection of Costa Brava pet-friendly villas and farmhouses.

The following map shows the location of the above mentioned pet-friendly beaches:

More information about travelling in Catalonia with pets can be found on the Catalunya.com page.

Where to stay on the Costa Brava?

This blog post is designed for those who are planning on visiting Catalonia and the Costa Brava for the first time. This is also for people who are seeking information about where to stay and what to do in the region. Below is a basic map highlighting the Costa Brava and the Maresme coastlines.

The Maresme coastline starts from Barcelona and finishes at Blanes. From Blanes the Costa Brava ends over 200 kilometers later at the French border. The Costa Brava can be split into three rough sections; Northern, central and Southern sections. Blanes to Palamos is the southern section. The middle section from Palafrugell to L’Estartit and the northern section from L’Escala to Portbou.

The middle and Northern sections

Middle and Northern sections of the Costa Brava are somewhat less developed (with one or two exceptions). These are also more family orientated and this is where the vast majority of our properties are located.

Popular locations are Begur (and it’s beaches of Sa Riera, Sa Tuna, Aiguablava). The beaches of Palafrugell – Tamariu, Llafranc and Calella de Palafrugell. Cadaques is the jewel of the Northern section of the Costa Brava.

For first time visitors to the Costa Brava i normally recommend the area around Begur/Tamariu. There’s a lot to see and do in a compact area and day-trips to explore the north or south of the Costa Brava are doable. Here is a map showing the main coves and beaches of the Begur/Palafrugell area;

Begur beaches
The beaches of Begur and Palafrugell

Cadaques, the pearl of the Costa Brava

Cadaques in the north is probably our favorite coastal town on the whole of the Costa Brava. There’s only one road in and out of town and it is a windy mountain road which can take up to 30 minutes’ from the neighboring town of Roses. Once you finally descend into Cadaques the mountain road adventure is quickly forgotten. The town has a unique charm and ambiance which has been preserved down the centuries. This is in part thanks to it’s relative isolation from the rest of the Costa Brava located on the end of the Cap de Creus peninsula.

Cadaques has seen many artists staying over the years including Picasso, Man Ray, Duchamp, Joan Miro. Most famously of all Salvador Dali who lived a large part of his life in the neighboring Port Lligat. This link to the rich history of Cadaques is tangible today in the many local artists galleries you will find among the narrow cobbled streets of the town. The town has a somewhat Bohemian atmosphere and a wonderful selection of good quality restaurants.

However i am always cautious on recommending Cadaques to first time visitors to the region because of it’s isolated location. If travelling around visiting other towns/beaches is an important factor this can be quite a tiresome experience driving over the mountain road every day. For people who like to explore other areas i recommend finding a base in the Begur/Tamariu area and then taking a day trip to Cadaques during your holiday.

Costa Brava vacation villas

At Charming Villas Catalonia we offer a selection of luxury Costa Brava holiday villas with pools and villas with heated pools. Let us know your important criteria and we will help you find the perfect vacation rental in Catalonia.

This post is just a rough guide and with our clients we go into much more detail not only with location and villa selection but also, if needed, advice and help planning activities and day trip itineraries. Please contact Sara or Richard at catalonia@charmingvillas.net for more information.

The best beaches on the Costa Brava

The Costa Brava has many great beaches from the isolated, hard to get to bays and coves on the Cap de Creus to the popular sandy beaches of Begur and Palafrugell. With over 200kms of coastline from Portbou in the north to Blanes on the southern tip there is a beach for everyone. Here is a selection of our personal favourites.

Our favourite beaches on the northern Costa Brava

Cala Taballera, Port de la Selva

The largest beach in the Cap de Creus peninsula. It is a good two hour hike from Port de la Selva and well worth the effort.

Cala Taballera, Port de la Selva
Cala Taballera, Port de la Selva

Platja del Ros, Cadaques

The beaches of Cadaques are not huge but this is one of the best and has great views of the Cadaques seafront in the background.

Platja del Ros, Cadaques
Platja del Ros, Cadaques

Sa Sabolla, Cadaques

A pleasant 45 minute walk from Cadaques in the direction of Cala Nans and the lighthouse this is a firm favorite of ours. Pebbles rather than sandy and a great place for a swim.

Sa Sabolla, Cadaques
Sa Sabolla, Cadaques

Cala Joncols, Roses

Roughly half way between Roses and Cadaques Cala Joncols makes a great stop off for a swim if you are walking the coastal “Cami de Ronda” between the two towns.

Cala Joncols, Roses
Cala Joncols, Roses

Our favourite beaches on the mid-section of the Costa Brava

Aiguablava beach, Begur.

The beautiful turquoise waters of Aiguablava make this one of the most beautiful beaches of the Costa Brava. This beach has a few restaurants, toilets and showers and a large car park nearby.

Aiguablava beach Begur
Aiguablava beach, Begur

Platja Castell, Palamos

With over 300m of fine sand, this is one of the largest and less busy beaches in the Palamos/Palafrugell area.

Platja Castell, Palamos
Platja Castell, Palamos

Tamariu beach, Palafrugell

One of the most popular beaches of the whole Costa Brava, Tamariu beach has beautiful clear waters and fine sand. There’s also a choice of restaurants to choose from on the beach front.

Tamariu beach, Palafrugell
Tamariu beach, Palafrugell

Portixol beach, L’Escala

Portixol beach is a great sandy beach sitting half way between the charming coastal village of Sant Marti d’Empuries and the larger town of L’Escala. There are a number of similar lovely sandy beaches each side of Portixol and a selection of restaurants within walking distance.

Platja de Portixol, L'Escala
Platja de Portixol, L’Escala

Cala Montgo, L’Escala

Just on the southern edge of L’Escala Cala Montgo is a lovely sandy bay with great views of the Montgri national park. There’s also a couple of nearby restaurants to choose from.

Cala Montgo, L'Escala
Cala Montgo, L’Escala

Sa Riera, Begur

Another of our favourites, Sa Riera in our opinion, is the best beach of Begur. A large area of sand and a handful of restaurants to choose from the beach offers space yet at the same time a sense of intimacy.

Sa Riera, Begur
Sa Riera, Begur

Llafranc beach, Palafrugell

Similar to the nearby Tamariu beach, Llafranc has a lovely sandy beach and a number of beach side restaurants to choose from.

Llafranc beach, Palafrugell
Llafranc beach, Palafrugell

Cala Estreta

On the Cami de Ronda coastal path one finds Cala Estreta and El Crit beaches and are a nice walk from either Platja Castell or from Calella de Palafrugell to the north. Isolated and with no bars or shops these are a great beaches to escape the crowds.

Cala Estreta, Palamos
Cala Estreta, Palamos

Sa Conca, S’Agaro

With numerous facilities, you can access it both by car and on foot, via a pleasant stroll along the coastal path. It has a blue flag and a few metres away from here is also the Port d’Aro marina.

Sa Conca beach, S'Agaro, Costa Brava
Sa Conca, S’Agaro

For more information about the beaches of the Costa Brava check out the Patronat de Turisme website.

Here is a map showing the locations of our favourite beaches on the Costa Brava

Costa Brava boat charter

Costa Brava boat hire

One of the most popular requests from our clients is Costa Brava boat hire. Here is information on the different ports from where it is possible to charter boats. The second part of this post is a list of Costa Brava boat charter companies.

The Costa Brava coastline is well known for its crystal clear waters together with its numerous hidden bays and coves. Many of these elusive coves are only accessible by sea making boat charter a popular pursuit on the Costa Brava.

Ports on the Costa Brava

The main ports for boat rental on the Costa Brava are Roses in the Alt Emporda and Palamos in the Baix Emporda although it is also possible to hire boats in Cadaques.

Roses is located on the edge of the Cap de Creus peninsula and makes a great base from where to spend a day exploring the bays and coves of the Cap de Creus with perhaps going ashore at Cadaques for lunch.

Restless Spirit
The restless Spirit on the Cap de Creus

The coastline from Palamos to the beaches of Begur is also very interesting with plenty of hidden coves and sandy beaches where to anchor and swim. A little further north from Begur at L’Estartit is where one finds the Medes Islands which are protected from fishing and are rich in local flora and fauna and are popular with divers.

If you do not have a Skipper’s licence this restricts the type of boat you can hire to smaller, less powerful boats. The vast majority of boats available for hire on the Costa Brava come with skipper included in the price.

Boat charter companies located on the Costa Brava

Restless Spirit based in Roses Restless Spirit
Boats Mediterrani based in Roses Boats Mediterrani
Roses Yachts based in Roses Roses Yachts
Aventura Nautica based in Roses Aventura Nautica
Charter Sant Isidre based in Cadaques Charter Sant Isidre
Cadaques boats based in Cadaques Cadaques Boats
Cadaques rent based in Cadaques Cadaques boat rent
Palamos boats based in Palamos Palamos Boats
General Nautic based in Palamos General Nautic
Llauts i Velers based in Palamos Llauts and Velers
Boat rental Palamos based in Palamos Palamos boat rental
Vela Nomada based in Palamos Vela Nomada

The Costa Brava coastal path

Cami de Ronda, the Costa Brava coastal path

From Port Bou at the north, all the way down to Blanes, the Costa Brava coastline is connected by a series of coastal paths. This network of paths, “Cami de Ronda” in Catalan, covers over 200 km of coastline linking all the major towns and villages along the way. It can take a total of nine or ten days walking at an average of 20/22 kms/day.

Cala Guillola
Cala Guillola, Cap de Creus, Cadaques

In October 2013 I spent four days walking between Port Bou and Sant Marti d’Empuries. In October 2014 i picked up again from Sant Marti and spent another four days walking to Sant Feliu de Guixolls. Traveling light with just a medium sized rucksack i booked hotels in advance. Usually arriving at my destination by mid afternoon after setting off in the mornings after breakfast at around 09.00am.

We live in the Girona province and i had already visited most of the main towns and villages along the Costa Brava. However i was really keen to explore some of the less well known areas and discover little hidden bays and coves. I chose October as this is a relatively quiet time for us at Charming Villas. The weather is generally warm and sunny but not the intense heat of the summer. Great tee shirt weather for us Northern Europeans!

I drove to the small station at Camallera, left my car and boarded the train to the frontier town, Portbou.

Walking the Cami de Ronda

costa brava cami de ronda Day 1. Port Bou – El Port de la Selva.

This stretch of the Northern section of the Costa Brava cami de ronda was relatively new to me. I had visited Llanca and Port de la Selva on various occasions but the rest of the coastline was a mystery. The train station at Portbou was huge and pretty quiet. This frontier town used to be an important hub between Catalonia and France. Now its glory days of commerce and movement are a distant memory. I didn’t hang around in the town long and quickly caught up with the red and white stripped markings showing me the way to follow.

Port Bou beach
The beach at the town of Port Bou, Costa Brava

Leaving the beach at Portbou behind me i followed the route which took me up and over a headland. I didn’t hit water again until reaching Colera. Similar to Portbou, Colera was a small coastal town which looked totally shut down on a week day in mid October. On I walked through fields and pine forests catching glimpses of blue to my left until I come to Port de Joan, a little bay just before Platja Garbet.

Port de Joan, Garbet
Port de Joan, Garbet

I got a bit stuck here as the red and white markings I had been following suddenly disappeared. I back tracked but could not find the way. Eventually i realized that the route took me around the base of the cliffs to the long sandy “Platja Garbet” beach. From here i passed through the town of Llanca and followed the well marked path to Port de la Selva.

costa brava cami de ronda Day 2, Port de la Selva – Cadaques.

I was really looking forward to this stretch through the Cap de Creus headland. Wild and wind beaten, this is where Dali spent a lot of his time gaining inspiration from the terrain. From the moment i left Port de la Selva behind me i didn’t see another soul until i reached Cadaques a few hours later. I took a little detour down to Cala Tavallera which is about a third of the way into the day’s walk.

Cala Tavallera
Cala Tavallera

The rest of the day was somewhat foggy and i couldn’t see very much but nevertheless i enjoyed the walk into Cadaques.

Costa brava cami de ronda Day 3, Cadaques – Roses

Another enjoyable day walking the Cap de Creus in relative solitude. Before arriving in Roses one passes a series of beautiful little bays, the first being Cala Joncols.

Cala Joncols
Cala Joncols, Cap de Creus

After crossing the headland of Cap de Norfeu I encountered a few more bays of which Cala Montjoi is the biggest and most well known. This is where the world famous chef Ferran Adria and his ground breaking restaurant, El Bulli. The walk into Roses was quite pleasant passing some nice little beaches on the outskirts of the town.

Costa Brava cami de ronda Day 4, Roses – Sant Marti d’Empuries.

The walk out of Roses was probably my least favorite stretch of the whole walk. There was some nice bits but i didn’t really start to enjoy it until i reached the natural reserve of the Aiguamolls De L’Emporda. The Aiguamolls is a famed wildlife reserve with many rare wild birds and wildlife. The route then takes you along the Fluvia river, crossing at Sant Pere Pescador and through farmland until reaching the charming coastal village of Sant Marti d’Empuries.

Sant Marti d'Empuries
The beach at Sant Marti d’Empuries

From Sant Marti i took a taxi back to the train station at Camallera and picked up my car and headed home to Besalu.

Continuing from where i had left off

Costa Brava cami de Ronda Day 5, Sant Marti – L’Estartit.

In October 2014 I was ready to go back and continue from where i left off the previous year. This time i drove directly to Sant Marti and left the car parked up.

Cala Portixol
Cala Portixol, Sant Marti d’Empuries

Once you arrive at Cala Montgo you leave the the hustle and bustle of L’Escala behind you until L’Estartit.

Cala Montgo, L'Escala
Cala Montgo, L’Escala

The terrain is pretty stony underfoot most of the day. There’s two little bays to stop off at before arriving at L’Estartit, Cala Ferriol and Cala Pedrosa.

Cala Ferriol
Cala Ferriol, L’Estartit

Day 6, L’Estartit – Begur

Day six starts off with a pleasant barefoot stroll along the sandy beach until reaching the river Ter which flows into the sea. The book i was reading stated that you could wade through this but upon reaching the river found that this was impossible. So the only option was to walk along the side of the river to the first crossing point at Torroella de Montgri then head back towards the beach and along to Begur. There is another option which takes you through the Emporda countryside and villages of Palau Sator and Pals before reaching Begur but i preferred to take the coastal route.

Sa Riera beach, Begur
Sa Riera beach, Begur

Day 7, Begur – Palamos


This is quite a long stretch of the Costa Brava cami de ronda but worth it for the breathtaking scenery along the way. First up is the view down to Platja Fonda and Aiguablava.

Platja Fonda, Aiguablava
The view of Platja Fonda and Aiguablava
The beach of AiguaBlava, Begur
Aigua Blava, Begur

From Aiguablava the route takes you inland and brings you out at the lovely little bay of Tamariu.

Tamariu, Costa Brava
The beach at Tamariu

After Tamariu the path takes you past the small cove of Cala Pedrosa, up to the lighthouse of El Far de Sant Sebastia then down again to Llafranc. For lunch you could either stop here in Llafranc or the next little coastal bay of Calella de Palafrugell.

The route now takes you through the Cap Roig headland where you will find the off the beaten track Cala Estreta.

Cala Estreta
Cala Estreta

As you approach Palamos the first beach you will come across is the great Platja Castell.

Platja Castell, Palamos
Platja Castell, Palamos

The coastal path takes you past a few more small bays before arriving on the main seafront of Palamos.

Day 8, Palamos – Sant Feliu de Guixols.

A pleasant, quite flat day of walking passing many lovely little bays.

Cala del Forn, Costa Brava
Cala del Forn, Costa Brava
Cap Roig, Costa Brava
Cap Roig, Costa Brava
Platja Sa Conca, Costa Brava
Platja Sa Conca, Costa Brava

I mean to get back and finish the last stretch down to Blanes so watch this space.

Further reading about the Costa Brava Cami de Ronda can be found at Costa Brava Patronat web page.